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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

The compact Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the city by a influential food magazine. The honour has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m utterly surprised,” remarks the proprietor, referring to his parents’ dedication that culminated in their modest shop earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant certainly succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in less syrup than is typical, giving it a richer, toastier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

The Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a personal life but her friends would visit to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.